Producer | Chartogne-Taillet |
Country | France |
Region | Champagne |
Varietal | Sparkling |
Sku | 95569 |
Size | 750ml |
John Gilman View from the Cellar 92+ Points The bouquet is a blend of apple, white peach, complex minerality, gentle brioche, white flowers and a bit of high-end smokiness. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, young and beautifully focused, with a rock solid core, great cut and grip, very refined mousse and outstanding length and grip on the primary finish. This is still very early days for this superb wine, so tuck it away in the cellar for at least a couple of years and let it blossom. Fine, fine juice.
This is becoming very fine, and watch out; it's entirely different from its old apples-and-butter form, more oystery and chalky and ginger and talc, with the apple-butter thing skulking in the mid-palate. It's racy, on the tensile side. I'd be a lot happier with three more grams of rs, but you won't agree if you prefer a vigorously dry Champagne.
Strong notes of petrol and yeast combine with those of citrus, green apple and a hint of brioche. There is a borderline aggressive mousse that is almost painfully intense yet it's sufficiently fine that the mouth feel of the flavors is not rustic or unpleasant. The finish is quite dry and crisp and while there is sneaky good length, it lacks a bit of depth. I suspect that this will eventually round out as I do like the underlying material. In sum, if you're going to buy this one I would suggest doing so knowing that it will require at least a few years of cellaring.
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